As Cheongju City transformed the former Tobacco Processing Plant into the 'National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Cheongju,' it preserved the 20-meter-tall chimney and the building's exterior while remodeling only the interior with a modern touch. Pictured below is the appearance before the renovation. [Photo courtesy of Cheongju City]

There are spaces that once breathed heat into the city and defined the modern era: factories filled with the noisy hum of machinery, underground bunkers shadowed by the tensions of the Cold War, and provincial government buildings where solemn administrative tasks were carried out. As times changed, these spaces completed their original roles and fell silent, but they are now being brought back to life, gaining a new lease on existence through "culture and arts."

Let’s embark on a journey to discover these special "urban regeneration" cultural spaces in North Chungcheong Province, which go beyond simple restoration to shine a light of hope on forgotten memories. During the sweltering summer, air-conditioned indoor destinations are perfect for travelers.

The Tobacco Processing Plant Transformed into an Art Museum Storage

Naedeok-dong in Cheongju was once known as "Tobacco Village." It was home to the nation's largest tobacco processing plant, which began operations in 1946, immediately after liberation. In its heyday, 3,000 workers produced 10 billion cigarettes annually, driving the Cheongju economy.

However, after closing its doors in 2004, the site was left neglected for over a decade as an eyesore, leading to the decline of the surrounding commercial area. To revitalize the area, Cheongju City benchmarked the world-renowned "Tate Modern" museum in London.

The Tate Modern was a renovated former power station. After it closed in 1981, it sat abandoned for over 20 years without a clear purpose before undergoing a massive renovation to become one of the world's best art museums. Today, with over 6 million annual visitors, it serves as London's premier cultural facility and a spearhead for revitalizing the decaying surrounding neighborhoods.

In transforming the tobacco processing plant into the "National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Cheongju," Cheongju City kept the 20-meter-tall chimney and the building's exterior intact while remodeling only the interior. Notably, it is the first "open storage museum" in Korea, boldly opening storage areas—typically strictly restricted in standard museums—to allow visitors to view collections exactly as they are stored.

A Flower Blossomed from the Traces of the Cold War: "Dangsan Bunker of Thoughts"

The "Dangsan Bunker of Thoughts" is a massive "Chungmu facility" built in 1973 by carving into the bedrock of Dangsan Mountain near the North Chungcheong Provincial Government building. It spans 200 meters in length and includes 14 rooms. A Chungmu facility refers to an underground emergency shelter (bunker) designed to serve as a wartime command post in the event of a national emergency, such as war or a major disaster.

The "Dangsan Bunker of Thoughts" was a massive Chungmu facility with 14 rooms along a 200-meter length, built by carving into the bedrock of Dangsan Mountain in 1973. [Photo by Reporter Lim Yo-hee, Joint Press Corps]

As a space designed for emergencies, it lacks standard interior paint. Yet, with colorful lighting and art installations now inhabiting this blunt, achromatic space, it could not be any more "hip."

Currently, the bunker is hosting a special exhibition titled "A Thousand Emotions, Ten Thousand Expressions." Beyond the heavy iron doors, the 14 rooms lining the long hallway are each labeled with various emotions: joy, ecstasy, pain, hatred, anger, sorrow, loneliness... We all have such rooms of diverse emotions within our own hearts.

In the visitor participation program "The Rage Room," participants wearing protective gear use hammers to smash old home appliances and various household items, allowing them to release pent-up emotions. Scattered around the room are broken objects—reminiscent of the emotional residues abandoned by those who have visited.

It is a rare space where modern people, who have lived concealing their true feelings for fear of potential repercussions, can finally express their unconscious.

Returned to the Citizens After 80 Years... "Picture Book Garden 1937"

The North Chungcheong Provincial Government building, completed in 1937, is a significant Nationally Registered Cultural Heritage (No. 55) built with voluntary donations from local citizens. Once a symbol of a solemn and authoritative space, it was opened to the public last April as a multi-cultural space called "Picture Book Garden 1937." As part of this transformation, the Governor’s office, which had occupied the space for over 80 years, was moved to the new annex building at the rear.

The North Chungcheong Provincial Government building, completed in 1937, has been reborn as the multi-cultural space "Picture Book Garden 1937." [Photo by Reporter Lim Yo-hee]Entering through the central entrance, the once-stiff hallways and rooms where civil servants worked are now packed with children's books and vibrant pop-up books. Children lose themselves in the delightful dilemma of choosing which books to read from the shelves lining the walls.

Currently, to celebrate the opening, an exhibition of original illustrations by Jung Seung-gak, famous for the fairy tale "Dog Poo," is being held alongside a special exhibition that features the entire space decorated as a three-dimensional pop-up book.

Furthermore, the provincial government courtyard has been transformed into an open park where citizens can enjoy rest, with walls torn down, juniper trees removed, and a pond installed.

All three locations are situated in downtown Cheongju, making them perfect for a one-day "Urban Regeneration Tour." We recommend a journey where you can feel the scale of modern industry and the scent of art at the former tobacco processing plant, physically experience art at the Dangsan Bunker, and return to your inner child with a warm cup of tea at the "Picture Book Garden 1937" at the North Chungcheong Provincial Office.

Cheongju = Reporter Lim Yo-hee